Newsday 100 Best Restaurants on Long Island
Brothers Boris and Eddie Safaniev did not grow up kosher, and when they opened DOMA Land + Sea in 2017, Boris said, “We wanted to challenge people’s idea of kosher.” Mission accomplished. The opulent restaurant sprawls over three dining rooms. The open kitchen, equipped with a Mini Cooper-sized Grillworks wood grill, is the domain of executive chef Oscar Martinez, who led the kitchens at steakhouse such as Old Homestead in Manhattan. His thoroughly modern menu comprises dry aged meat (because DOMA serves meat, dairy is prohibited so instead of finishing his steaks with butter, Martinez brushes on rich melted beef fat he renders from rib-eye caps), grilled fresh fish, a sushi bar and an array of global starters, from barbacoa beef tacos to rockfish tempura. The kosher wine list is a revelation. Glatt kosher, supervised by the Vaad Hakashrus of the Five Towns and Far Rockaway.